3 down, 1 to go
(Susan)
Today it was a hot and sweaty day here in the desert of Eastern Washington. We stopped in Winthrop tonight, which is an Old West-y tourist town, a bigger version of Medora, ND. Tomorrow we’re headed up the big ol’ Washington Pass in the North Cascades National Park, and then will probably be camping in a NPS campground around Diablo.
Here’s some pictures from today:
1. We had breakfast at this cafe, which, inexplicably, is located in the Okanogan livestock auction house. It had the biggest portions of any cafe in the country we’ve been to for breakfast, aportioning 8 slices of bacon in one awesome “serving.”
2. On the way up to Loup Loup Pass from Okanogan:
3. We were thirsty:
4. At the pass!
5. In the Methow Valley, after descending the pass:
6. The North Cascades appear at the far end of the valley:
Passing time
(brice)
Today we rode 65ish miles over Wauconda pass to Okanogan:
This was the easiest (both distance and elevation gain) of the 4 passes we’re doing this week and it felt like it. We started around 830 and were at the top in barely 2 hours. The rest of the day was more difficult than anticipated due to some rascally headwinds. Those guys show up everywhere! Fortunately we were distracted by a big change in scenery as the pass brought us into one of Washington’s dry, desertlike ecosystems that people outside of the Northwest are usually not familiar with:
We have more great pictures but the connection is a bit flakey here so they’ll have to wait. In addition to the headwind, we were also distracted by issues with Susan’s rear derailleur. It had been mis-shifting with increasing frequency over the past week or so and began not shifting at all for short periods of time. I’m not an expert by any means but have worked through a handful of derailleur adjustments on my own; still, I was stumped.
Luckily there was a bike store 20 miles down the road; we just had to get those 20 miles done before they closed at 530. We narrowly beat the clock. I was gratified that the mechanic tried the same adjustments I had first, but he quickly diagnosed the problem as the derailleur cable itself. It was rusty and had also gotten a kink in it at some point so it was getting hung up inside the housing. A quick replacement seems to have fixed most of the issue, though a new chain/cassette is probably necessary once we get to Seattle.
Now we’re off to an early bed so we can get up and send Loup Loup pass. Two more, and it’s all downhill to the ocean.
Entertaining ourselves on the rest day
Yesterday we woke up at six, looked at the weather and went back to sleep. After a late breakfast, we spent the afternoon making this for our one-year-old niece, Ariella:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxFeYRB-Gr0
Lyrics by Susan
Music by Brice
Enjoy!
Today we’re off over Wauconda Pass, hopefully in no rain.
Over the top
of Sherman Pass!
We made it the 4 miles from Kettle Falls to the base of the 23 mile, 4000 foot climb around 8:30, crossing the Columbia “river” in the process. We’re north of Grand Coulee right now so it’s really just a big long lake:
We started up the hill and it promptly started raining, continuing with varying intensity for the next 3.5 hours. It’s pretty easy to stay warm while moving, but we had to take very short breaks to not get chilled while stopped. We kept up slow but steady progress until the rain finally let up with a few miles to go. Unfortunately between my fogged glasses and the rain washing sweat into my eyes (easily the worst part of biking in rain) I didn’t get to see much scenery, but I’m pretty sure there were a lot of trees and some clouds.
The last few miles were quite steep so we stopped to take some photos:
We made the summit, just over 5500ft elevation, ~4.5 hours after starting, and rapidly put on another layer or two for the descent, since we would be basically sitting in a cold 25mph wind for 17 miles. The sun broke through a bit but there were only a few nice vistas:
Now we’re chilling in Republic WA, contemplating the weather and seeing if we’ll be able to ride tomorrow – we’ll decide after we wake up since the forecast can’t decide between torrential rain or maybe just showers. The next segment has a shorter climb but a very long descent, so it would be pretty miserable in the rain. We feel pretty ready to ride though; today was hard but manageable and all the hills are shorter from here.
Rainstorms and bunnies, an essay on RV parks
(Susan)
(Note that the previous post now has all the proper pictures uploaded.)
Tonight we’re in Kettle Falls, at the base of the enormous Sherman Pass. Getting here today the weather was schizophrenic–the rain would start coming down and we’d have to stop and put on all our layers, and then the sun would come out and it’d get hot and humid and we’d have to stop again and take everything off. There was pretty scenery:
Once we got into camp we had to lay out the tent, fly, and etc to dry them out in the sun after the good soaking they got this morning. The RV park we’re camping at here is another really nice one, complete with a flock of tame bunnies:
I briefly noted in yesterday’s post that the Ione RV park was subpar, but didn’t explain why. This may be a good opportunity to go into the relative differences between good and bad RV parks, of which we have become quite the conossieurs. In short, nice ones are nice because somebody cares enough to keep them up–mow the lawn, make sure there’s no dog poop on it, clean the bathrooms, replace things as they get broken, etc. Often the nice ones, like this one here in Kettle Falls and the one we stayed at two nights ago in Newport, are accredited or recognized by national organizations of some sort and feature recreational areas as well as just the pull-in spots and hookups. But, as Tolstoy said, nice RV parks are all the same, and the bad RV parks are all bad in their own ways. For example, the park in Gackle, ND that we’ve been warning all the east-bound cyclists about for a thousand miles had no working bathrooms and was littered with trash that included a broken toilet seat. However, the owner appeared to be in possession of all his faculties and let us stay for free to boot, perhaps out of a sense of guilt. In contrast, the bad RV park we stayed at last night in Ione, WA, featured an owner who was completely baked out of his gourd when we first met him, but somehow not quite stoned enough not to spend the entire night getting outrageously high on his front porch, which doubled as the RV park office. Unfortunately, we had to walk just feet front the porch to get around to the bathrooms–which, though technically functional, had not been cleaned since the last time the owner was sober. The owner, who looked just like Dennis Hopper in Apocalypse Now, shared the evening with an odd collection of men ranging in age from 19 to 50-something; by the time I walked past for a late night bathroom trip the conversation had devolved to making odd noises at each other and then giggling, an occupation which stopped uncomfortably when I came by. [“Herrrrooooo,” said Dennis Hopper to me from the porch.*giggles* “Hi.” “How are youuuuu?” “Fine, how are you?” “Being noisy!” *giggles*) Then, after we’d gone to bed, we were woken up by the lot of them arguing about where their shoes had gone. In short, we were pretty motivated to get out of there this morning despite the incessant rain.
Anyway, tomorrow it may or may not rain as we ascend our 4000 feet in 20 miles, so we’ll try to take lots of pictures as long as we’re not miserable. Tuesday is supposed to be solid downpours all day so it looks now like we’ll be taking a rest day in Republic before continuing on with the next 3 passes.
Washington!
(note, the post below was written last night. We’re still in Ione now, finally able to make it out of the tent after 3 hours of consecutive storm fronts kept us pinned inside. Now we’re in the gas station eating breakfast. One more storm front is about to hit, but then we should be able to make a run for Kettle Falls as planned.)
(Susan here)
With Brice’s brand-new birthday present (Fig. 1) installed, we hit the road yesterday for Newport, WA, just over the border. We made it nicely, but were disappointed that there was no “Welcome to Washington” sign. This morning we had to cross briefly back into Idaho and then back into Washington on another road so we hoped we’d get one to take a picture of this morning, but no dice. The atmosphere is pretty unmistakably Washington, though (Fig. 2).
The nice people at the nice RV park where we camped last night insisted that we camp under the picnic shelter because of the forecast thunderstorms. Even though we have a really effective tent, it’s nice not to have to dry out the fly the next day or get wet when getting in and out of the tent, etc, so that was great. Today more thunderstorms rolled through. We got hit by a fast-moving nasty one just as we got to a house, continuing the serendipitous trend we’ve set all trip. Brice booked it for the open garage while I ran up to the porch to ask the family if it was ok if we waited out there, but the lady was already at the door by the time I got to the porch, saying, “come in, come in, hurry!” before I could even open my mouth. So we waited out the storm in their living room instead.
We travelled up along the Pend Orielle River (Fig. 2) today and now are camped alongside it at a significantly less-nice RV park in Ione. I can’t complain about the view, though (Fig. 3). It’s actually cleared up now and is nice and sunny all of a sudden, so my clothes will probably dry which is Very Awesome.
Fig. 1:
Fig. 2:
Fig. 3:
The plan for the last leg
(Susan)
It’s amazing how close we are to being done now. With Montana being so long and its winds so ornery, it really made the Pacific seem farther than it was.
Short distances aside, we have our most difficult cycling coming up, as we take the high passes of WA-20 over the Cascades. Here’s the route profile showing the four big passes, all of which are much, much more intimidating than little old’ Marias Pass over the Rockies:

We’ll do slightly less mileage per day so that we get just one pass a day. With gains up to 4,000 feet in 20 miles (Sherman Pass, the steepest and first), we’ll definitely be putting in a full day’s work. Here’s the agenda:
Today, 36 miles through flats to Newport, WA
Saturday, 56 miles to Ione
Sunday, 51 miles to Kettle Falls
Monday, 41 miles over Sherman Pass to Republic
Tuesday, 67 miles over Wauconda Pass to Omak or maybe Okanogan
Wednesday, 45 miles over Loup Loup Pass to Winthrop or maybe 13 more to Mazama
Thursday, over Washington Pass and the little blip of Rainy Pass and then as far downhill as we feel like coasting.
Barring us taking a rest day somewhere in there, which is likely, we’ll hit the Pacific at Bayview a week from today. It will then take us 2 days by bike and ferry to reach downtown Seattle.
Sandpoint Beach Party
(Brice)
Despite my rear wheel being flat again when we woke up yesterday morning, we made it in to Sandpoint, land of surprisingly warm temperatures, beaches, and bike shops. We found new tires easily, and got Susan some spiffy new cycling shoes as well (the old ones had chronic problems with the cleat not staying in place basically due to poor design), but the issue with my rear wheel proved less tractable.
The consensus is that the freehub body of my rear wheel is on it’s way to broken (the freehub is the nifty thing that lets the rear wheel move independently from the cassette/chain/pedals in one direction – you can’t coast without it), and it turned out that bike shops in Idaho don’t carry freehub bodies for a 7 year old wheel that uses a nonstandard type of hub. Further investigation determined that in fact bike shops everywhere don’t carry the part I need… there might be one on eBay, but it wasn’t going to make it to Idaho any time soon. This is my punishment for getting slightly fancy wheels. A quick consultation with my on-call bike mechanic friend Reid established that that attempting to take apart the hub, figure out what was rubbing, fix it, and put it back together was a Bad Idea. Which means that I get a new back wheel for my birthday! The shop was able to get the necessary parts overnighted and the mechanic should be building the wheel as I type this.
Sandpoint is a really nice town and we didn’t have birthday plans other than going on a bike ride so we decided to hang out on the beach and have a nice dinner. It’s really surreal to go from being in bike mode to sitting on a patio in 80 degree sun in front of a really nice lake watching sailboats go by and drinking a Manny’s. I also ate a tasty trout. We slept in this morning, the wheel should be ready by 2, and our plan is to try to ride the 35 miles to Washington before dinner. Not a bad birthday at all!
We only took a few pictures, but here’s a shot of lake Pend Oreille (or Ponderay depending on whose spelling you trust):
Here’s what a dollar looks like after it holds your tube in place for 120 miles:
And finally a lousy selfshot at the beach:
Flat and Tired
(brice–written last night)
So George Washington worked out pretty well for awhile, but after about 15 miles the dollar rotated around and Susan’s tube blew out again a slightly different place. We repatched the tube and got back on the road fairly quickly… when I got a flat. My rear wheel is getting a bit thin and I don’t think the kevlar has held up too well as a sliver of metal got through… twice as it turned out since while reinflating after the first patch there was still a leak. So another patch later we were back on the road, but pretty far behind our normal schedule, only having about 20 miles covered by 13:30 or so.
We made it all the way into Idaho, just a few miles short of our destination of Clark Fork, when one of the patches in Susan’s tube gave up. I’ve never had a patch leak like that before but probably the extra room in the tire due to the blowout is to blame. We put a new tube in and got George back in place, got back on the bikes, and my wheel was flat. At this point it was about 19:00 but fortunately the sun is up late. Another metal shard had punched through my rear tire.
So the tally for the day was 2 flats for me (but 3 changes due not checking the tube well enough before reinstalling) and 2 for susan. We’re down to about 15 minutes per change, which I think is pretty good considering we’re reinflating with hand pumps.
Despite all that, we actually had a great day. I’ll let pictures at the end speak for the scenery, the weather was nice, and the wind was light. Tomorrow we’ll get to a bike store, get new tires, and see what’s going on with my rear hub, which kind of sounds like a baby dolphin is stuck in it. I think the freehub is wearing out.
Pictures:
Out of Libby, we followed the Kootenai River west and saw the falls and attempted to cross the river on a suspension bridge, which some of us had more success with than others:

Then we turned south through the Cabinet Mountains:

Then we turned west again along the Cabinet Gorge reservoir:
A blowout day along Lake Koocanusa
(Susan)
Today we rode south from Eureka to Libby along the eastern edge of Lake Koocanusa, which was created by the Libby Dam, a distance of over 70 miles. Despite the 100% chance of rain, there was no rain and the day progressively got warmer and sunnier. The terrain was fun and hilly and nicely blocked the headwind we were supposed to have. Overall, it was a really enjoyable day of riding.
There was a teensy problem, though. On one downhill, I was peering intently at the map, trying to make out something printed in fine print, when I ran over a big rock on the shoulder in such a way that it ripped the wall of my rear tire and caused a blowout: (A blowout is when the tube explodes from being forced out a hole in the tire while under pressure.)

So I had to take out the tube and patch it:

And then Brice knew a handy trick for reinforcing the wall of the tire at the rip to prevent a repeat blowout:

The dollar bill solution lasted the next 35 or so miles to Libby and we’re hoping it holds until Sandpoint, ID, the next place with a bike shop, where we can get a replacement tire. There is a sporting goods store in Libby where we got a couple new tubes; they did have tires, too, but they weren’t exactly the right size and weren’t up to snuff for a long-distance tour anyways. So we’re going to cross our fingers.
Here’s a bunch of pictures from the road today, of the lake and the dam:




































